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A Dermatologist’s Guide to Understanding Acne

Acne is one of the most common skin conditions, but that doesn’t mean it’s always easy to manage. From persistent breakouts and acne scars to choosing the right skincare products, there are plenty of questions about what really works. Dr. Fricke is here to answer some of the most common questions about acne, sharing expert insights to help you better understand your skin and build a treatment plan that’s right for you.

When should someone see a dermatologist for acne?


Dr. Fricke:
If your acne has overstayed its welcome (think: more than a few months), is painful, leaving dark spots or scars, or just isn’t responding to over-the-counter products, it’s time to call in the experts.

Many people wait until acne becomes severe before seeing a dermatologist, but early treatment can help prevent permanent scarring and save you from spending money on products that aren’t working. Whether you have occasional cystic breakouts or persistent pimples that never seem to disappear, a dermatologist can identify what’s causing your acne and create a treatment plan that’s tailored to your skin.

Why won’t my acne go away despite using skincare products?


Dr. Fricke:
Acne can be driven by hormones, genetics, excess oil production, inflammation, clogged pores, or bacteria. Over-the-counter products can be helpful for mild acne, but they often aren’t strong enough to treat moderate or severe cases.

It’s also common to switch products too quickly. Most acne treatments take at least 6–12 weeks to show noticeable improvement. Constantly changing your routine can make it harder to know what’s actually working.

How can you tell if acne is hormonal?


Dr. Fricke:
Hormonal acne often has a few telltale signs. It tends to appear along the jawline, chin, and lower cheeks, and the breakouts are usually deeper, more tender, and cyst-like rather than small whiteheads.

Many women notice flare-ups around their menstrual cycle, during pregnancy, or around menopause, when hormone levels naturally fluctuate.

That said, location alone doesn’t diagnose hormonal acne. A dermatologist looks at your medical history, age, symptoms, and overall pattern of breakouts to determine whether hormones are likely playing a role.

Is adult acne different from teenage acne?


Dr. Fricke:
Yes, and surprisingly, adult acne is incredibly common.

Teenage acne is often driven by the surge of hormones during puberty and frequently affects the forehead, nose, and cheeks. Adult acne, especially in women, is more likely to be influenced by ongoing hormonal fluctuations and often shows up around the chin and jawline.

Adult skin may also be drier and more sensitive than teenage skin, so treatment plans often need to balance acne control while protecting the skin barrier.

What are the biggest mistakes people make when treating acne?


Dr. Fricke:
One of the biggest mistakes is trying to “scrub away” acne. Acne isn’t caused by dirty skin, and harsh scrubs can actually increase irritation and inflammation.

Other common mistakes include:
– Picking at or popping pimples
– Using too many active ingredients at once
– Expecting overnight results
– Stopping treatment as soon as the skin starts to improve
– Skipping moisturizer because you’re afraid it’ll make acne worse

Think of acne treatment like training for a marathon—not a sprint. Consistency almost always beats intensity.

How do dermatologists personalize acne treatment?


Dr. Fricke:
No two people have the exact same acne, so no two treatment plans should be identical.

A dermatologist considers factors like your age, skin type, acne severity, hormone history, pregnancy plans, medications, lifestyle, and whether you’re dealing with scarring or dark spots.

Depending on your needs, treatment may include prescription topical medications, oral medications, hormonal therapies, in-office procedures, or a combination of approaches. The goal isn’t just to clear today’s breakouts; it’s to prevent tomorrow’s, too.

Does diet really affect acne?


Dr. Fricke:
Diet isn’t the sole cause of acne, but for some people, it can play a role.

Research suggests that foods with a high glycemic index—like sugary drinks, candy, and highly processed carbohydrates—may contribute to breakouts in certain individuals. Some studies also suggest that dairy, particularly skim milk, may worsen acne for some people.

The key is that everyone’s skin is different. Rather than eliminating entire food groups, it’s often more helpful to look for patterns and discuss them with your dermatologist. A balanced, nutritious diet supports overall health, and healthy skin is part of that picture.

What are the best treatments for acne scars?


Dr. Fricke:
The “best” treatment depends on the type of scar.

Indented scars may improve with procedures like microneedling, laser resurfacing, chemical peels, or subcision. Raised scars may be treated with steroid injections or other specialized therapies. Dark marks left behind after acne (post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation) often respond to prescription creams, sunscreen, chemical peels, or laser treatments.

The first step is getting active acne under control. Treating scars while new breakouts continue is a bit like repainting a wall before fixing the leak that’s damaging it.

Why does acne treatment sometimes make breakouts look worse before they improve?


Dr. Fricke:
This temporary phase is called “purging,” and it can happen with medications that increase skin cell turnover, such as retinoids.

These treatments bring existing clogged pores to the surface more quickly, so it may seem like your acne is getting worse before it gets better. While frustrating, this usually means the medication is doing its job.

Purging typically improves within several weeks. If breakouts continue getting worse for an extended period or you’re experiencing significant irritation, it’s a good idea to check in with your dermatologist.

What do you wish every acne patient knew?


Dr. Fricke:
Acne is incredibly common, incredibly treatable, and absolutely not a reflection of your hygiene or self-care.

You don’t have to “earn” clear skin by buying dozens of products or following every trend on social media. In fact, simpler routines are often more effective.

Most importantly, don’t lose hope if your first treatment doesn’t work. Finding the right plan sometimes takes a little trial and error, but with patience, consistency, and guidance from a dermatologist, clear skin is an achievable goal for many people.

Your skin is part of your story, but it doesn’t define you.

See a Dermatologist

While acne is common, there’s no one-size-fits-all solution. If you’re struggling with persistent breakouts, scarring, or finding a treatment that works, our team is here to help. Schedule an appointment to receive a personalized treatment plan designed for your skin and your goals.

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